Christmas is a cherished time of year in France. There's no shortage of celebrations and plenty of amazing food, however, it tends to be a more relaxed affair than in the UK and US. The endless razzle-dazzle and commerciality hasn’t yet permeated every aspect of the festivities. At this time of year, the French place value on quality time with family and friends more than overwhelming festive excess. After years of panic buying gifts and Christmas food at 5am back in the UK, we think the French do it the right way!
Relgious traditions
As in the UK and the US, for many the religious significance has taken a back seat. For the French, the joy of Christmas comes mainly from the family reunions and celebrations. Some do still attend traditional midnight services (la Messe de Minuit), but less and less with every passing year. In France, it’s Christmas Eve (le Réveillon) that is the height of the festivities - even more so than Christmas Day itself (le jour de Noël).
Gift-giving
Gift-giving is an essential part of Christmas in France, but there are differences to the UK and US. In France there isn’t a ‘correct’ time to open presents, instead it’s whenever fits the schedule. It's usally on Christmas Eve that families exchange and open their gifts to each other, but it's on Christmas morning that children wake-up to open presents left by Father Christmas (Père Noël). These are left in fireside slippers, not stockings!
French Christmas meals - Réveillon
It’s on Christmas Eve that most French families tuck into their main Christmas meal (le Réveillon). Traditionally, this could be turkey, but in South-West France it’s equally likely to be capon, seafood, or an excellent cut of local beef. The meal usually starts with appetisers like oysters, smoked salmon, or terrines, and many families include a cheese course before dessert. Dessert is often la bûche de Noël (Christmas log). Mince pies and Christmas pudding are yet to gain momentum here, but our French neighbours said they enjoyed homemade versions.
In recent years, more families have moved their main Christmas meal to Christmas Day. However, traditions remain important, so many households now enjoy a festive meal on both days. Drinks like Champagne or regional wines accompany the meal, and the celebration is often a long, convivial affair filled with laughter, multiple courses, and family bonding. To finish the holiday season, many families enjoy a galette des rois in early January, a delicious puff pastry cake traditionally shared to celebrate Epiphany.
Christmas decorations
French homes generally have a Christmas tree (un sapin de Noël) decorated with sweets and fruit, and sometimes an impressive crib (une crèche). Other than this, French houses are quite light on Christmas decorations. Some of us are grateful for this, whilst other expats can’t help bringing the boxes of plastic santas, tinsel and fake snow to France with them.
External Christmas lights are a relatively recent arrival to France, but you do see more with every year that passes. The rule of twelfth night isn’t closely observed here. In France, the locals generally have a laissez-faire attitude about when people should take-down the decorations. Many leave them up well into the New Year. Some villages simply unplug their Christmas lights ready to plug them in the next December!
Christmas music in France
Seasonal music is less pervasive (though alarmingly we have heard Slade's 'Merry Christmas Everybody' booming at more than one Christmas market in the last few years). In France, people generally tend to favour traditional music over the Christmas period, although you will hear imported songs and translated versions like ‘Adeste Fidelis’ (‘O Come All Ye Faithful’), ‘Mon Beau Sapin’ (from ‘O Tannenbaum’) and ‘Vive Le Vent’ to the tune of ‘Jingle Bells’. ‘Petit Papa Noël’ is a French childrens’ classic.
Christmas markets in South-West France - Marchés de Noël
If you want to soak up the festive atmosphere, France is great for Christmas markets. They offer the perfect opportunity to discover local specialities, local business owners and even meet your neighbours! In the South-West of France, several towns and cities host charming Christmas markets. Here are a few that are well worth a visit:
Sarlat Christmas Market, Dordogne
Sarlat-la-Canéda, in the heart of the Périgord Noir, transforms its medieval streets into a fairy-tale Christmas village. Wooden chalets brim with handmade gifts, local delicacies such as foie gras, truffles, and walnuts, and festive sweets. The town’s golden stone buildings glow under twinkling lights, while live music, seasonal performances, and family-friendly activities make Sarlat a magical festive destination.
Périgueux Christmas Village, Dordogne
Nearby, Périgueux offers a lively Christmas village with around thirty stalls set against the historic backdrop of the Saint-Front Cathedral. Here, visitors can browse artisan crafts, taste regional foods, and enjoy festive decorations, perfectly blending history with the joy of the season.
Bordeaux Christmas Market, Gironde
For those who prefer a more urban setting, Bordeaux hosts a bustling market on Place des Quinconces. Chalets feature local crafts, gourmet foods, and regional wines, while the city centre sparkles with lights and seasonal displays, creating a vibrant festive atmosphere that appeals to families and couples alike.
Carcassonne Magic of Christmas Festival, Aude
Finally, the medieval city of Carcassonne lights up for the holiday season with Magie de Noël. The fortified citadel provides a stunning backdrop for wooden chalets selling artisan products and festive treats. Visitors can enjoy an ice rink, seasonal decorations, and family-friendly entertainment, making Carcassonne’s market a magical stop in the South of France during December.
What about Boxing day and New Year’s Eve?
Boxing Day (Saint Etienne) is a normal working day in France (except in the Alsace region). Having enjoyed the festivities, French people get back to normality relatively quickly. There is no nursing of hangovers in front of the TV. In fact, television does not seem to exercise the same pull as it does in the UK and US, and life rapidly returns to normality. On New Year’s Eve the focus is much more on gastronomy than anything else. In France the final festive celebration of the season is Epiphany (6th January) with the traditional ‘galette des rois’ (cake of the kings) in which there is a hidden china figurine for the lucky diner!
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