Go with the flow
Entre Deux Mers is embraced by the tidal stretches of the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers and offers history, culture and wine aplenty.
Flowing from the Auvergne in central France, the Dordogne finally makes its acquaintance with the Spanish-born Garonne north of Bordeaux in South West France. And in this watery embrace you’ll find the rough triangle of land known as the Entre Deux Mers. The name translates directly as between two tides and the region stretches as far as the tidal reach of each river. This is wine country; some of the prettiest wine country you’ll find in France with rolling hills, regimented vineyards – many with tasting and buying opportunities - and charming bastide towns to explore.
Just a quick hop over the river from the city of Bordeaux, this region appears to have it all but sits outside the tourist hotspots further upstream on the Dordogne giving it something of a time-stood-still feel. Easy to get to from Bordeaux or Bergerac airports or via the TGV – again to Bordeaux – it is an ideal location for weekend trips or longer stays. For anyone wishing to buy a little slice of France to enjoy the quiet pace of country life and the stunning scenery on offer, staying within easy reach of a city, such as Bordeaux, can be a smart move. Close to the coast but away from the crowds, you’ll find peace, space and privacy but with the confidence that anything you need is only a short drive away.
Beautiful bastides
Troubled times meant that new towns were developed with security and safety in mind and the Hundred Years War has helped shape the architecture of the region. In the middle-ages bastide towns sprang up throughout France, and Entre Deux Mers has some fine examples. These towns tended to be built as a single, designed project rather than evolving over the years, to be centred on a town square, often with covered, arched arcades and with a grid formation of streets. Doing double duty as both strongholds and trading centres they marked the English-owned and French-owned domains of the area. Although built to a recognisable pattern, each of the bastides has its own character and charm and they are a key feature of the region. Monségur, for instance, with its huge central covered market place (markets every Friday morning) perches on a rocky outcrop and has splendid views from the ancient ramparts across the Dordogne valley. It is home to the original and best night market which runs every Wednesday throughout the summer. The famous 24-hour jazz festival – the Monségur Swing - takes place every July and packs the town out with bands and music lovers. Further east, Ste Foy la Grande has streets lined with medieval half-timbered houses and lies right on the banks of the Dordogne river. The thriving Saturday market sprawls along street after street and provides lots of opportunities to shop or sit with a coffee and croissant while you soak up the atmosphere. Other bastides at Créon, Cadillac, Libourne, Pellegrue, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne and Blasimon are worth a look.
Cosmopolitan and buzzy, these are year-round towns where shops and bars stay open to serve the resident population.
A hotbed of history
In mid-summer something remarkable happens in the town of Castillon-la-Bataille. This is the town that played host to the final battle of the 100 Years War (oddly named given that it lasted nearly 120 years and wasn’t actually a war, more a series of conflicts). With a population of 3300 inhabitants, it is a typical, quiet French market town. But for three weeks in July and August an amazing show takes place. Every evening 700 hundred actors and volunteers, including 50 horsemen, get into costume and re-enact the battle in a 2-hour show. Cannons, fireworks, geese, pigs, chickens and an original musical score – this is a history lesson and a true spectacle in one! For details of the show visit the official website: www.batailledecastillon.com.
A stylish gateway
Although not strictly within the boundaries of the Entre Deux Mers it is hard to visit or live in this area without Bordeaux playing a part in your life. Whether you are a culture vulture looking for ballet, theatre or musical events, or an ardent shopper always on the look-out for the stylish and new, Bordeaux will not disappoint. Forward thinking town-planning has seen the installation of a fast, efficient and attractive tram system throughout the city. There is a lot to be learnt here by other cities when it comes to park and ride. Leave your car on the outskirts of Bordeaux and you and each passenger (up to the legal limit for the vehicle) get a return ticket into the city for the grand total of €3.40.
This is a small city and most of the features you’ll want to see are accessible on foot. Take in the water mirror on the quayside: a huge, shallow pool of water which blows steam or jets of water then gradually empties. As the last water drains the final few millimetres go completely still and suddenly the magnificent crescent of 18th century buildings in Place de la Bourse is reflected as if in a mirror. A walk down the Rue Ste Catherine will provide all the shopping opportunities you need. 1.2km of uninterrupted shops with yet more little streets of boutiques and bars off to the sides!
Raise a glass
This might be wine country but it’s the wine of sociable drinking with friends rather than the serious focus of wine buffs. Great value, good quality and enjoyment are the watch-words.
Entre Deux Mers is an area that produces plenty of red (75% of the Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Supérieur AOC wines will be from Entre Deux Mers grapes) but anyone who enjoys a cold glass of crisp white with a plate of oysters or a morsel of Roquefort will do well to go straight to the Entre Deux Mers appellation itself. On the other hand, dessert calls for something more golden and sweet and the AOCs Ste Croix du Mont, Cadillac and Loupiac all produce good wines at prices that makes them worth seeking out.
Image source: Gironde Tourism
