Life in the Creuse: The heart of the French countryside

Thirteen years ago I was working in Paris and excitedly telling my colleagues there about my impending move from the UK to La Creuse in the heart of the French countryside. Their reactions had me doubting my decision….!

‘La Creuse!?’ ‘Pourquoi La Creuse!!!’ ….. ‘Where IS La Creuse?’..... ‘There’s nothing there but cows.’ ….. ‘How do you even get to La Creuse?’

Then one colleague sidled up to me and quietly said ‘I know La Creuse. It’s the real France. You will really enjoy life there.’

Finally, one weekend in early April I turned the huge iron key in an ancient lock and put my shoulder to the swollen wooden gate of our overgrown little French paradise.

It had been uninhabited for many years but as I looked past the back-breaking work ahead, my gaze fell on a long lush garden dappled with warm sun shining through the early leaves of mature trees.

Twinkling light played on the small river that gives the region its name and the magnificent neighbouring 15th century castle above came into view. I knew instantly that there was enough in La Creuse to fill my heart for many years to come.

The region is steeped in ancient history, with chateaux of the 11th to 15th centuries peppering the countryside and giant, mysterious rock formations left by the Ice Age.

Lakes, springs, hills, woodlands, small farms, (once mostly worked by women and children whilst the men travelled to the major cities of France plying their trade as skilled masons) and hamlets of little stone houses huddled together - these are what typify La Creuse.

Quiet pretty villages, churches vibrant with painted frescos, small local festivals noting the harvests of nuts, apples and potatoes, summer antique brocantes and the iconic Limousine cattle - these are the ongoing heritage of La Creuse - this is the real France!

Lively local markets; the thrilling brief rush of a passing cycle race; endless walks through forested hills and along ancient country pathways banked by moss-covered stone walls; sailing, swimming, canoeing on the many lakes - this is life in La Creuse.

Many are drawn at first by the affordable price of land and property and the opportunity to build a life which is freer than that which they leave behind. The slower pace of life takes some adjusting to, but once embraced it is hard to give up.

La Creuse is one of the least populated departments of France. Nonetheless newcomers will soon find themselves part of a friendly and welcoming community.

Major Towns in the Creuse

Gueret is the seat of the region’s Prefecture and has all the commerce you need. It’s not the most beautiful town, though the historic centre is attractive and the nearby deeply forested Monts de Gueret offer a magnificent escape into the countryside and even the opportunity to come face to face with wolves.

Aubusson and neighbouring Felletin are ancient stone-built towns with distinctive architecture and a long history bound up with tapestry weaving. The recent Museum of Tapestry is a rich addition to the region’s culture.

Bourganeuf nestles in a lush valley. A medieval town gathered around the magnificent Tour de Zimzim.

La Souterraine is an attractive town well-placed for access to major roads and the Intercity Rail service to Paris and Limoges.

Boussac in the North East of the region is a friendly market town with an imposing 15th century chateau overlooking the La Petite Creuse river. The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries (now the centrepiece of the Musee de la Moyenne Age in Paris) were discovered here in the 19th century.

Villages

There are a host of beautiful villages where time has stood still but where communities still thrive under a quiet surface. Moutier d’Ahun, with its Clunisien Abbey, Chatelus Malvaleix and the nearby Abbaye du Prebenoit, Masgot ornamented with unique stone carvings, La Celle Dunoise, Valliere, Croq - and many more to explore.

Nature

France, let’s be honest, is a very beautiful country, but the varied natural landscape and the accessibility of outdoor pursuits is where La Creuse offers something truly special.

The climate has distinct seasons with crisp winters, spring flowers abundant, warm to hot summers, and colourful but sunny autumns.

Ice-age stone formations at Toulx-Saint-Croix, the lakes of the Pays des Trois Lacs and the expansive Lac de Vassiviere, the craggy confluence of the rivers at Crozant overlooked by its 13th century castle and immortalised by Monet, and the lush hills and forests of the Millevaches National Park - there are endless opportunities to hike, cycle, swim, fish, sail, climb, or relax and watch birds of prey soaring high in the clean air.

It’s a popular destination for French, Belgian, Dutch and German holiday makers, all keen to explore this rich countryside and profit from the relaxed tourist sites.

Whether it’s ancient chateaux, quiet villages, or beautiful open countryside you desire, La Creuse can provide it all. A broad range of property at all price points offers you the chance to own your own part of this bucolic paradise.

Are you looking for a simple cottage, a farm with land, somewhere with the possibility to run gites, an elegant town house or a magnificent chateau? Then consider La Creuse.

All of the BVI agents in the area are passionate about this lesser-known part of France and are eager to share the secret with you.

View properties for sale in the Creuse